Sometimes, this is okay - The Cabin pattern has a 1/4" seam for both facing & binding, but the difference is minimal. Left untrimmed, your neckline will be slightly smaller than intended. This is because while bias facing turns the seam allowance inward, bias binding simply wraps around the raw edge. If you're doing bias binding, regardless of its width, you'll want to trim your seam allowance away completely. If you are adding bias facing, your seam allowance should be 1/2 the with of your bias tape (for example, 1/2" bias binding will need a 1/4" seam allowance). Note: If you are following this tutorial for another (non-Blueprints) pattern, you may need to adjust your seam allowances. This technique also creates a bias finish on a closed loop without measuring its exact length, while still keeping a clean finish on the inside. We'll focus on the neckline, since this curved area is often the trickiest area to apply the binding. Now that you're an expert on the differences between tape, facing, and binding, we'll cover some tips and tricks for getting a great finish. There are two types of bias tape: Single fold, used most often for bias facing, and double fold, used mostly for bias binding. This is what makes it perfect for finishing curved hems. Bias tape is naturally stretchy and flows around curves gracefully, unlike fabric cut on the straight grain. It has two edges turned and pressed to meet in the middle. This photo tutorial will walk you through the bias facing & binding methods used in Blueprints patterns, which give you a clean bias finish inside & outside without the need to measure.įirst off, what is the difference between bias tape, bias binding, and bias facing?īias tape is a strip of fabric (or multiple strips sewn together) cut on the bias. You can make them invisible by hand sewing the final seam or add a pop of contrast stitching.īias bindings and facings are used on two Blueprints patterns: Cabin & Saltbox. You can add a pop of color or print that nobody will see or blend in seamlessly using the same fashion fabric. If you sign up you also get access to the free printable swatch library, sewing project planner and a few other handy templates.Bias facings and bindings are some of my very favorite finishing techniques for necklines, armholes, and other hems. PS: looking for a fun and free sewing project? Sign up to the newsletter for a free copy of the smallest Tsuno Tie Bag and sew up some scraps. PS: Check out some of my other sewing tutorials like how to sew mitered corners or how to sew corners on a narrow hem or see my favorite and not so favorite sewing tools. I hope you found the tutorial useful! Do you plan on using this technique? have you tried it? Do you have any questions just leave a comment below, i'd love to hear what you think! If your main fabric does not stay well after ironing, use a different fabric to do the bias binding. Narrow binding is key to get the best results! So lastly a few tips before you storm towards your sewing machine :) If you follow the edge you will get an even stitch line on the right side of the garment and because you are working on the wrong side you don't have to worry about not catching the bias binding on the inside. I always align the edge of the garment to the edge of the presser foot, then change the position of the needle close to the folded edge of the bias binding. Stitch the bias binding in place, working on the wrong side of the garment. I like to fold the seam towards the inside of the garment so that the seam of the bias tape is invisible from the right side of the garment. Now fold and press the bias binding towards the stitches.įold the seam allowance under and press again and add some pins along the way. Press the bias tape away from the garment, but be careful not to iron out the second fold. Stitch in the fold and 1cm from the edge of your main fabric. You will trim this edge after stitching the bias tape in place. I normally cut all my garments with a 1 cm seam allowance, the fold in the bias tape has to be 1 cm from the edge. As you can see there is a small strip of fabric next to the bias tape. I will show the individual steps in photos, but I always find it helpful to see a technique in different ways so I included an illustration from the Pocket-T pattern where you can see all the steps combined.įold the tape open and pin to the right side of the garment.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |